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The First Tourist in Iceland: Sir Joseph Banks' Historic Journey


Map of Iceland from 1630 by Willem Blaeu
Map of Iceland from 1630 by Willem Blaeu

For centuries, Iceland remained a remote and isolated island. Nobody visited the island to explore its landscapes or observe its inhabitants. Foreigners who arrived did so under the directive of the Danish king to govern the people or as churchmen serving as bishops or priests. However, this began to shift towards the end of the 18th century and into the early 19th century.


Tourism in Iceland, in its nascent form, started to take shape as the country's unique and breathtaking nature captivated European travellers and adventurers. The early visitors were predominantly scientists, scholars, and artists drawn to the island for its intriguing geology, rich folklore, and stunning natural beauty.


In the Victorian era, Iceland emerged as a favoured destination for the more intrepid European tourists. The release of letters and travel books, detailing the island's surreal landscapes and the resilient spirit of its people, further boosted its allure. This era heralded the onset of tourist travel to Iceland, with tours to iconic locations such as Geysir, Þingvellir, and the majestic waterfalls along the south coast.


By the late 19th and early 20th centuries, Iceland had become a well-known destination for tourists, with enhanced accessibility by sea and subsequently by air, which contributed to an increase in visitor numbers. Although the growth of tourism was gradual, it laid the foundation for the thriving industry that would develop in the late 20th and early 21st centuries.


Fisherman's hut in Reykjavík, 1836. Drawing by Auguste Mayer.
Fisherman's hut in Reykjavík, 1836. Drawing by Auguste Mayer.


The First “Friend of Iceland”


Icelanders have a term for those who travel to Iceland: "Íslandsvinur" (Friend of Iceland). This is usually only used for well-known individuals. When locals say someone famous is a "Friend of Iceland", people know he has visited Iceland. This term originated when few people visited the island. Iceland is now popular among celebrities, and as a result, the use of the term has slightly declined.


One of the earliest known instances of a "Friend of Iceland" is the 1772 visit by British scientist Sir Joseph Banks. His journey to Iceland was actually a twist of fate. Banks had gained fame in Britain for his global circumnavigation with Captain Cook on one of the most celebrated exploratory voyages of their era.


When Cook was organizing another expedition, Banks was again invited and quickly assembled an expert team. However, Cook's ship couldn't accommodate all the personnel and equipment Banks intended to bring. Left behind, Banks, having already gathered his team, decided it was opportune to lead his own expedition. He chartered a ship and set off for Iceland, considering it an under-explored and remote destination.


Painting of Sir Joseph Banks by Joshua Reynolds, dated from the same time he traveled to Iceland (between 1771 to 1773)
Painting of Sir Joseph Banks by Joshua Reynolds, dated from the same time he travelled to Iceland (between 1771 and 1773)

During his journey, two experiences particularly stood out for Sir Joseph Banks. Firstly, he aimed to study Hekla, the country's most infamous volcano, then renowned worldwide as the "gateway to hell." Banks and his team ascended Hekla, believing themselves pioneers in this regard, though that claim was not entirely factual.


The other significant aspect of the trip involved the famous Geysir. Banks and his team conducted detailed measurements and examinations of Geysir, and even cooked using the geothermal heat from the hot springs. The expedition proved highly successful for Banks, boosting his social standing back in Britain, where he became a celebrated figure. Despite the trip's impact, Banks chose not to publish his findings, though his diaries provide a detailed account of his experiences.


Banks' observations extended beyond Icelandic nature to its governance. He criticized Danish rule over Iceland as tyrannical and believed that Icelandic life would improve substantially under British sovereignty, claiming that Icelanders would be happier and more prosperous. Banks was also profoundly affected by Icelandic culture, generously giving gifts and consistently praising the Icelanders' hospitality.


Banks visited the famous Geysir geyser, now dormant
Banks visited the famous Geysir geyser, now dormant


Annexation into the British Empire?


At the turn of the 19th century Europe was marked by intense turmoil and in 1807 Denmark sided with Napoleon Bonaparte against Britain. During this period, British interest in annexing Iceland intensified, with proposals considered in 1801 and revisited in 1807 amidst escalating British-Danish hostilities. Sir Joseph Banks was deeply involved, tasked with assessing the pros and cons of such a move.


The conflict had an immediate and severe impact on Iceland. The British Navy blockaded the Atlantic, cutting off most ships between Denmark and Iceland, sparking fears of famine among Icelanders due to the disruption of essential supply routes.


However, Banks' plans were unexpectedly disrupted in the summer of 1809 when Jørgen Jørgensen, a Danish adventurer, and Samuel Phelps, a soap maker, seized control in Iceland after arriving on the British privateer Clarence. Instead of facilitating the annexation of Iceland into the British Empire, Jørgen and his comrades on the ship declared Iceland's independence from Denmark and installed Jørgensen as the new ruler.


This coup, known as the Dog-Days Revolution, lasted only two months before the British Navy (HMS Talbot) intervened and restored Danish rule, effectively ending any further British incorporation efforts. To the British, the idea of independence for such an underdeveloped country was considered ludicrous. Had Jørgensen chosen to declare Iceland a part of the British Empire rather than proclaiming its independence, the British Navy might have supported this move, potentially altering the course of history significantly.


Painting of a sloop-of-war, the same class of ship as the HMS Talbot, which arrived in Reykjavík to detain Jørgen Jørgensen. Incidentally, this painting depicts the capture of the Spanish xebec frigate El Gamo in 1801 by the Royal Navy brig HMS Speedy. HMS Speedy was commanded by Thomas Cochrane, 10th Earl of Dundonald, on that day. In 1809, he was the captain of the Clarence that facilitated Jørgensen's coup.
Painting of a sloop-of-war, the same class of ship as the HMS Talbot, which arrived in Reykjavík to detain Jørgen Jørgensen. Incidentally, this painting depicts the capture of the Spanish xebec frigate El Gamo in 1801 by the Royal Navy brig HMS Speedy. HMS Speedy was commanded by Thomas Cochrane, 10th Earl of Dundonald, on that day. In 1809, he was the captain of the Clarence that facilitated Jørgensen's coup.

What if Iceland had been incorporated into the British Empire? While the Danes respected Iceland's unique character, the British might have imposed their culture as in other colonies. Historians suggest that Icelanders might now be speaking English and governed like Canada or Australia, with a British-appointed governor instead of an independent head of state.


Despite his eagerness to annex Iceland, Icelanders owe much to Sir Joseph Banks, Iceland's first tourist. His actions during the Napoleonic Wars helped avert severe famine and hardship, and he initiated the trend of travelling to Iceland. Lets hope that future visitors will not seek to integrate Iceland into a larger empire, whether British or otherwise.


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